Montreal is the big city; the mixed architecture of the downtown buildings and the small streets of Outremont, you can eat more or less every cuisine in the world, you can find everything all the time, and everything is under construction about 90% of the year. And in the city, we’ve become accustomed to running from one novelty to the next, from one event to the next and from festival to festival, preferably with a coffee or matcha in hand…
And sometimes, we forget that Montreal has an ancient, super-charming, postcard-worthy neighborhood. As the sun makes its (timid) return to the city, it’s time to put on some flats, grab your most tourist-coded bag, sling a camera around your neck and hit the pavement of Old Montreal.
We’ve put together an itinerary with our special Old Montreal bucket list for a perfect Saturday in the neighborhood…
We’re well prepared…
We downloaded the free app Montréal en Histoires to learn more about the history of Old Montréal, where frankly you can’t take 10 steps without coming across a building or street corner with historical value.
It’s a bit like a treasure hunt for those who like to know everything about the places they visit, without needing to have their nose in a Routard guide.
12:00 – Brunch at Mama C
We made reservations because we know that brunch in Montreal is sacred, and we have a busy day-no time to wait in line.
The Greek restaurant is one of the new spots in Montreal where we want to become regulars, because we can’t get enough of the shakshuka and because if we get a table next to the big windows overlooking rue Saint-Paul, we can do some ultra-satisfying people-watching. We look out for the best-dressed locals and their dogs, the most luxuriously groomed in town.
We also love Mama C’s decor, its velvet-covered booths, its dirty chaï and its perfect acoustics – you can chat quietly without having to raise your voice even when the restaurant is full – and it’s very often full at brunch time on weekends.
On Saturdays, it’s open from 11am to 3pm for brunch.
Mama C: 100 rue Saint-Paul Ouest
14:00 – Shopping
There are lots of little stores in the back streets of Old Montreal, but many of them are very touristy and sometimes it’s hard to know which one to enter.
For the more fashion-conscious, and for those who want to take a break and indulge their luxury tastes, SSENSE has a beautiful store on the Old Port -on reservation only- where you can try on Phoebe Philo’s Collection B and schedule fittings from your wishlist with a stylist.
SSENSE: 418 rue Saint-Sulpice / for reservations, call +1 514 289 1906 or book online
For those who want a souvenir of Montreal, but not the polyester T-shirt that falls to shreds after three washes, we go to Marché Saint-Laurent.
It’s a kind of general store that offers gifts, small cosmetics, misappropriated “tourist” objects and, if you already need it, excellent coffee. Bonus: most of the items at Marché Saint-Laurent are made in Quebec!
Marché Saint-Laurent: 503 Place d’Armes
For those who want that Montreal glow , we go to Maison Margan, which is also one of the city’s most beautiful boutiques.
The perfumes and cosmetics, delicate on a base of argan oil knowledge, are incredibly chic and delicate, and made in Quebec. The boutique’s pink box transports us back in time, because the cobblestone street outside and the almost personalized service inside seem to come from another, gentler time…
Maison Margan: 370 Place Royale
15:30 – Visit Montreal’s oldest chapel
After a bit of shopping, we move on to a cultural visit that’s truly a must-see in Old Montreal: the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Bonsecours, built in 1675 as a pilgrimage site under the direction of Marguerite-Bourgeoys.
It was completely rebuilt in 1754 after a fire destroyed the original stone chapel. And, with a little effort, you get the most photogenic view of the Old Port – after climbing the 69 steps to the Belvedere…
SiteArchéologique Marguerite-Bourgeoys: 400 rue Saint-Paul Est
16:30 – Marché Bonsecours, coffee break
Right next to the chapel is the Marché Bonsecours.
The heritage building is listed as one of the most beautiful in Canada, and inside you’ll find yourself back in the ’80s, surrounded by made-in-Quebec craft stores.
We stop off at Café des Arts, in the Marché, for a coffee with a view and maybe one of their mini-meringues… We’ve earned it! And what’s more, we haven’t finished our stroll around the neighborhood!
17:45 – Stroll along the Old Port
We follow the Old Port along the water’s edge and enjoy the river’s sea air in our hair, all the way to the Bota Bota boat spa…
18:20 – Visit to the Bota Bota boat spa
As the sun begins to set, it’s the perfect time for a stopover (up to 3 a.m.) at the Bota Bota spa, which is moored year-round and offers relaxation with hot and cold baths and unbeatable views-in golden hour, it’s almost too much, and we don’t want to leave…
For the water circuit stopover (3h, between 6:20 and 9:20 p.m.), it’s $85 per person on Saturdays – the price needs to be checked, because the spa runs a lot of promotions with special access, so check online and, preferably, book beforehand.
Bota Bota: 535 rue de la Commune Ouest
20:30 – Dinner at Nevski
After walking all afternoon and relaxing in Bota Bota’s hot (and icy) water, we end the day with dinner at Nevski’s for a bit of Eastern European festive ambience, vodka, a mountain of pierogies, beet salad and other dishes to share.
It’s one of the coolest places in the neighborhood, and a great opportunity to meet someone to continue the evening with, dance a little, drink cocktails…
Nevski: 75 Queen Street
23:00 – And for those who don’t want to go home before sunrise…
For night owls, we’re going to Clandestino, one of the best speakeasies in town.
You’ll have to find it, even if it’s one of Montreal’s worst-kept secrets; behind a secret door, and be sure to drink a tall glass of water between each Mezcal cocktail…
Have a nice day in Old Montreal!