Last week, I went to the Soif de Cidre festival , and between two thunderstorms and the 12 glasses of cider I drank – to taste – I was able to chat with several of the region’s cidery owners.
We know the winemakers pretty well – through films, shows, the annual article that says it was too cold or not cold enough and the grapes froze overnight, putting the whole harvest at risk…
But I didn’t really know cider makers (or cidriculteurs.trices), because cider, in fact, is something very new and very Québécois. Even though I adhere to the cult of the apple (like all Québécois) and eat about a kilo a week, I’ve never been a cider connoisseur-until now.
Cider, Quebec, orchards
Cider is an alcohol made from apples (so far, so good). The apples are pressed to extract a juice-the must, if you’re an expert-which is fermented, hence the bubbles.
In Quebec, and especially in the Eastern Townships, we’ve already mentioned Frelighsburg and all its orchards, but it’s also the beating heart of cider – and cider is fairly new (it’s been in vogue for the last 10 years or so).
It’s similar to the process used to make wine, and many of the cider makers we spoke to use the méthode champenoise ( like champagne), which ages the must for up to 24 months in barrels.
I was able to taste ice cider (with slightly glazed apples, to be drunk over ice), fruit-flavored cider, classic cider, granita cider and, my favorite, apple brandy.
And since it’s summertime and Montrealers are more or less on a permanent road-trip, now ‘s the time to drop by the region’s cider houses for a taste, too…
Itinerary
Obviously, cider has to be earned, but this time the road-trip we’re proposing is a daytime escapade (with time for the alcohol to leave your system, because if you’ve been drinking, you can’t drive) where, if you leave a little early, you can even do all 6 cider houses in one go.
We’ve written this itinerary to cover all our favorite cideries, but we recommend a comfortable pace – you can break the itinerary into two or three, or even visit one cidery per weekend until the end of summer…
We start by leaving Montreal not too early, but not too late either. Sunscreen, insect repellent, water bottles (recyclable) – we don’t need to teach you how to leave for the day, Montrealers are used to it.
We drive 65km (about 1h20) to Franklin, and arrive at…
Cidrerie #1: Capsule Temporelle
“Capsule Temporelle” is because each cuvée of cider is different – the apple juice is fermented for up to a year in stainless steel barrels, unfiltered, with no additions. It’s natural, organic, and tastes of the year’s apples.
You can stop by the Capsule Temporelle farm for a tasting of their ciders, with a dry sausage from their boutique to eat on a picnic table in the heart of nature before heading out…
Where? 2278 Rte 202, Franklin, J0S 1E0
When? Until mid-July, Thursday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. / from mid-July, Monday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Cider to try? I loved the sea buckthorn-flavoured cider (with sea buckthorn berries from Ferme des Petits Écarts next door).
We get back in the car, and drive about 100km (1h20 drive) to Frelighsburg, for our pit stop at…
Ciderhouse #2: Domaine Héritage
Domaine Héritage has taken over an orchard with century-old trees (“venerable apple trees”), and makes cider with a carbon-negative approach (everything is reused, transformed into bio-carbon, the forestry is regenerative and hemp is planted to eat the CO2).
You can sample Domaine Héritage’s ciders (with oysters), and hang out on the terrace in the sunshine before heading out…
Where? 150 chemin de Richford, Frelighsburg
When? The boutique is open Thursday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Cider to try? I loved Abbot’s Corner, which tastes a little like champagne (centenarian).
And we’re off again for a shorter 50 km drive (about 45 minutes) to Mont Saint-Grégoire, in…
Cidrerie #3: Verger et Cidrerie Denis Charbonneau
Cidrerie Charbonneau has been a family business since 1950, and it’s now the 3rd generation of Charbonneaus making cider at Mont Saint-Grégoire.
In addition to cider, made with a blend of apples from the family orchard, the farm also offers U-pick apples, strawberries, raspberries and blueberries, as well as truly exceptional apple doughnuts.
You can drop in for a tasting of sparkling ciders and apple musts, dine at the crêperie or just stop by the boutique for a well-deserved break…
Where? 575 rang de la Montagne, Mont Saint-Grégoire
When? The crêperie is open weekends from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., the boutique is open 7 days a week from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., and pick-your-own from June to October from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Cider to try? I loved the ice cider, to be drunk – obviously – iced.
…and right next door, a 2-minute drive or a 10-minute walk (to earn your next drink), you can go to…
Cidrerie #4: Cidrerie Famille Tremblay
Also a family cidery, the 4th-generation Tremblay family makes farmhouse cider, fermented at low temperature (using the famous Champagne method).
We stop by the farm to bring some cider back to Montreal (we’ve got a cooler in our suitcase, we’re Québécois after all)…
Where? 375 rang de la Montagne, Mont Saint-Grégoire
When? daily, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Cider to try? the cidre avec marc de raisin (pronounced mar to sound like you know your stuff) is exceptional… I also tried a cider spritz , which I recommend 100%.
…and after a little stroll, we get back in the car, and drive 21km (22 minutes) to…
Cidrerie #5: Cidrerie Michel Jodoin
Cidrerie Michel Jodoin is the oldest cider maker in the area – from father to son since 1901, and they’ve been making cider since the ’80s.
We’ll have booked the tour online on the cidery’s website here, and we can also drop by the boutique before heading off to the last cidery on our itinerary…
Where? 1130 Rang La-Petite-Caroline, Rougemont
When? Open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Cider to try? my favorite was the barrel-aged apple brandy
We drive about 128km (1h20) and yes, it’s a bit far, but it’s worth it because when you get to Stoke, you’ll see…
Cidrerie #6: Cidrerie Paradoxe
Cidrerie Paradoxe’s biodynamic cold-fermented cider is perfect, and it’s one of two ciders the very young farm produces (the second is elderberry-infused).
You can visit the boutique after making an appointment on the cidery’s website.
Where? 460 Route 216, Stoke
When? By appointment
Cider to try? Cidre 18-82
Drink in moderation, don’t drink if you’re driving, and take the time to hang out at picnic tables and in orchards…