Em&May’s studio in Montreal immediately brings to mind thepunk warehousesof New York fashion houses from the ’80s and ’90s. It evokes Kim Gordon’s X-Girl and Sofia Coppola’s Milkfed—those large apartments transformed into streetwear factories and the wild fashion shows held there.
In a large space with a concrete floor, thegirls working for EmiliePittman—founder and designer of Em&May—are sewing delicate lingerie and swimwear while discussing the TV series *Riverdale*. Others are talking on the phone, headphones on, typing away on computers set up on large carpentry tables. When I arrive, Emilie is hand-dyeing lace—a delicate task.
It’s one of the few fashion “factories”inMontreal that operates entirely byhand, and the only one that makes custom-made lingerie. And yesterday was launch day for the girls at Em&May.
Emilie and theEm&May girls
Emilie Pittman calls her studio “our little slice of heaven.” After growing up in Newfoundland, attending design school at Lasalle College, and getting her start designing custom, handmade swimwear from her apartment, she launched Em&May in 2019. Since 2023, she and her team have been working from the studio, where they chat while surrounded by racks overflowing with lace and colorful panties.
She tells me that the last few days have been pretty surreal, because the brand’s social media has been racking up record numbers of views, and because just that morning, Em&May launchedThe Sanctuary collectionto unprecedented success.
She glances at her phone to check during our interview—it’s the most orders the brand has ever received in such a short time. More than 50% come from abroad: Denmark, Poland, France, and Japan.
Of course, launching a brand isn’t easy every day. Emilie is a designer, founder, and has also taken on the role of manager. In addition to her“baby,” Em&May, she’s responsible for her employees—her “7girls.” She’s helped by her older sister, the COO (Chief Operating Officer), and frankly, from where I’m sitting, she’s doing a really great job.
The energy in the studio is incredibly pleasant, and that’s what made me think of Sofia Coppola when I walked in. Beyond the lace and soft lighting, it’s the feminine energy of the girls who work at Em&May that has captivated social media and Montrealers in the know —thegirls, including Emilie, are all under 30.
Made-to-order (Custom-made)
One of the brand’s unique features—and one of the reasons it’s so popular—is its made-to-order service. All Em&May lingerie sets and swimsuits can be made in sizes ranging from XXS to 4XL, and the cup sizes on the tops can be adjusted to + or ++.
To try them on, you can visit one of the brand’s pop-up storesor stop by the studio (by appointment only); otherwise, you can send your measurements when you place your order. To take your measurements, use a measuring tape and be a little flexible.
In the future, Emilie would like the brand to travel —she loves the fleeting nature ofpop-ups and seasonal capsule collections— and to set up shop in stores abroad: Berlin, London, Mexico City.
Montreal
Through the studio’s large windows, you can see far across the Plateau and all the way to Mount Royal. Emilie tells me about Montreal as a city where she’s found her place. While the city is known for beingcool andMontrealers for being some of the best-dressed city dwellers in the world, it still flies under the radar of the major fashion weeks.
But in recent years,“Made in Montreal” has becomeincreasingly popular. It seems the city hasn’t let its popularity go to its head, because Emilie describes Montreal’s fashion community as incredibly close-knit and positive.
Practical Information
Website? emandmay.com
Instagram? @emnmay
Thanks, Emilie!
