Em&May’s studio in Montreal is immediately reminiscent of thepunk warehousesof New York fashion houses in the 80s and 90s. It brings to mind Kim Gordon’s X-Girl and Sofia Coppola’s Milkfed, large apartments converted into streetwear factories and wild fashion shows.
In a large space with concrete floors, thegirls of EmiliePittman—founder and designer of Em&May—sew delicate underwear and swimsuits while discussing the TV series Riverdale. Others talk on the phone, headphones on, typing on computers set up on large carpentry tables. When I arrive, Emilie is dyeing lace by hand—a delicate task.
It’s one of the few entirelyhandmadefashion “factories”inMontreal, and the only one that makes custom underwear. And yesterday was launch day for the girls at Em&May.
Emilie and thegirls from Em&May
Emilie Pittman calls her studio“our little slice of heaven.“ After growing up in Newfoundland, studying design at Lasalle College , and starting out designing handmade, custom swimsuits from her apartment, she launched Em&May in 2019. Since 2023, she and her girls have been working from the studio, where they chat surrounded by racks bursting with lace and colorful panties.
She tells me that the last few days have been quite surreal, because the brand’s social media accounts are exploding with views, and because that very morning Em&May launchedThe Sanctuary collectionwith unprecedented success.
She checks her phone during our interview—it’s the most orders the brand has ever received in such a short time. More than 50% come from abroad: Denmark, Poland, France, Japan.
Of course, launching a brand isn’t easy every day. Emilie is a designer, founder, and has taken on the job of manager as well. In addition to herbaby, Em&May, she is responsible for her employees—her sevengirls. She is helped by her big sister, the COO (Chief Operating Officer), and frankly, from where I’m sitting, she’s doing really well.
The energy in the studio is incredibly pleasant, and that’s what made me think of Sofia Coppola when I walked in. In addition to the lace and soft lighting, it’s the feminine energy of the girls who work at Em&May that has charmed social media and Montrealers who know them —the girls, including Emilie, are all under 30.
Made-to-order
One of the brand’s unique features—and one of the reasons why it is so popular—is its made-to-measure service. All Em&May lingerie sets and swimsuits can be made in sizes XXS to 4XL, and the size of the cups on the tops can be adjusted to + or ++.
To try them on, you can visit one of the brand’s pop-upsor drop by the studio (by appointment only), or you can send your measurements when you place your order. To take your measurements, use a tape measure and a little flexibility.
In the future, Emilie would like the brand to travel —she loves the ephemeral nature ofpop-ups and seasonal capsules— and set up shop in stores abroad. Berlin, London, Mexico City.
Montreal
Through the studio’s large windows, you can see far across the Plateau and all the way to Mount Royal. Emilie talks to me about Montreal as a city where she has found her place. While the city is known for beingcool andMontrealers for being some of the best-dressed city dwellers in the world, it still flies under the radar of the major fashion weeks.
But in recent years,made-in-Montreal has becomeincreasingly popular. It seems that the city hasn’t let its popularity go to its head, because Emilie describes Montreal’s fashion community as incredibly close-knit and positive.
Practical Information
Website? emandmay.com
Instagram? @emnmay
Thank you, Emilie!