It’s August, but we’re already planning our fall long weekends. It’s the most beautiful season of the year in Quebec, and there’s more to see than just the vast red and gold forests. Along the waterfront, fall feels just as exotic as if you were traveling to northern Europe.
Quebec’s natural landscape, along the saltwater shore, is a breathtaking sight in the fall as you travel north up the river.
It’s also a natural environment that we must preserve, that we must cherish, that we must sometimes leave undisturbed, and that we must respect. All too often, we’ve seen natural treasures damaged by overtourism and industrialization.
In Quebec, as everywhere in North America, we’re also on land acquired by colonizers; the land was stolen, and the Indigenous nations that were displaced and dispossessed—who have lived on this territory for thousands of years—often lament the way they’re treated and exploited.
That’s why we’re focusing on ecotourism, which respects the land and allows us to experience Quebec’s nature with a clear conscience. And we can do just that a 4-hour drive from Montreal on our next road trip, in Kamouraska…
KAMOURASKA, BY THE SALTWATER
The municipality of Kamouraska is a 4-hour drive from Montreal and just two short hours from Quebec City, heading north along the south shore of the St. Lawrence River. The name of the place comes from the Algonquin word“akamaraska,” meaning “there are reeds by the water’s edge.”
In the early 19th century, Kamouraska was a major vacation destination for Canadians, thanks to the beauty of its landscapes and the saltwater of the St. Lawrence River.
Several villages, including the eponymous Kamouraska, were brought together to form a municipality, and today people often refer to “Kamouraska” as if it were a country—or a kingdom.
The atmosphere is half-Scandinavian, half-Practical Magic.
OUR FAVORITE SPOTS IN KAMOURASKA
THE KAMOURASKA ART CENTER
Of course, all this preserved natural beauty—with the saltwater and the refreshing river breeze—attracts a great many people with gentle hearts: poets, painters, sculptors, and photographers.
If you’re passing through Kamouraska, you absolutely must stop by the Kamouraska Art Center, which is located in a former courthouse that resembles a Gothic castle. It hosts exhibitions and organizes arts education workshops forkids, cultural events, festivals, and auctions.
Where? Kamouraska ArtCenter , 111 Morel Ave., Kamouraska
Website? centredartkamouraska.ca
THE CHAPEL ON THE QUAY
In the villages of Kamouraska, you can also visit numerous artists’ studios and community arts centers.
We recommend visiting the Chapelle du Quai in Rivière-Ouelle, which offers an artistic program and a small café in a setting of exceptional beauty.
It’s open from National Day to Labor Day, every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.—so that’s right at the very beginning of fall, before the reeds turn red.
Where? Chapelle du Quai, 157 Chemin de l’Anse-des-Mercier, Rivière-Ouelle
Website? chapelleduquai.ca
BIKE AND WALKING TOURS ALONG THE RIVER
There are several bike trails that let us explore Kamouraska with the wind in our hair—wearing a thick sweater and a little poncho if it rains—and we have a list of our favorites;
- the Rocky Buttons Trail
- the Rivière-Ouelle Bike Trail
- the Sainte-Hélène Bike Trail
- the Grande-Anse Bike Path
For those who prefer to wander on foot, listening to music, or stopping spontaneously at all the local farms and cafés to discover the region at a leisurely pace, we have a list of walks and hikes;
- the Parc de l’Ancien-Quai
- the Montagne à Coton
- the Ixworth Trails
- the Parc des Sept Chutes
- the Boisé Beaupré
CAFÉS AND RESTAURANTS
We explore Kamouraska by driving through it, and just as we stop at scenic overlooks to take a break or snap a photo, we also stop for a bite to eat when we come across a farm, a café, or a restaurant along the way.
Some of our favorite spots
- Cybèle Farmfor strawberries and its dairy bar
- Gijamika Farmfor meat
- Le Mouton Blanc cheese factory
- theAmouraska vineyard
We also recommend stopping at the lovely El’Drée Tacos in Saint-Denis-de-la-Bouteillerie (open until mid-September).
AND FOR SLEEPING
To visit Kamouraska, plan a long weekend—time passes differently along the river. The air is salty, you sleep well, and you’ll take your time.
For those who want a taste of the countryside without straying too far fromthe heartof Montreal’s art scene, we recommendCheval Tribal, where you can rent a loft overlooking the owners’ herd of horses, go horseback riding—and even get a tattoo before you leave.
For those who want to step back in time and who have deliberately left their phone chargers at home, we recommendthe Auberge Akamaraska.
For those who, after spending the day outdoors, want to sleep under the stars (but without getting eaten alive by mosquitoes), we recommendLes Perchoirs du Cirque, where you can sleep in a cabin that resembles an architectural bird’s nest with a view of the region.
